I don’t know about you, but exfoliation is one of my favorite parts of skin care… but it took me a long time to understand that exfoliating can damage skin when not done right.

We’ve been ‘trained’ to think that the scraping and stinging we feel after exfoliating is ‘normal.’ It’s not. We see redness after exfoliating and think we’ve done a good job getting the dead skin off. We have not. We think that if skin feels dry after exfoliating that it’s a good thing. It is not.

A disclaimer: I’m not an esthetician, but I’ve worked in the beauty industry for years with some of the biggest brands in the world. I’ve been lucky enough to get a one-on-one education from some of the top beauty professionals and here’s what I’ve learned:

Seek balance.

When we exfoliate, we take off dead skin cells and debris (like makeup that cleansing doesn’t wash away), but we also remove necessary hydration and oils.

Every time you take something off, you MUST put it back in. This means that after every exfoliation, applying moisturizer is mandatory. No exceptions.

To look it’s healthiest, skin has to have the proper balance of hydration and oils, and dead skin cells need to be removed to allow newer cells to strut their stuff. That’s where the healthy glow comes from.

Knowledge is power.

Over exfoliation, or exfoliating with product that’s too aggressive, can actually age your skin, like creating fine lines. Ask a skin care professional what type of exfoliant your skin needs.

There are two types of exfoliants: chemical and physical. Physical exfoliants, also known as scrubs, commonly use fruit pits or nutshells to scrape away dead skin. They can actually cause fine cuts in the outer layer of the skin. Chemical exfoliants lift dead skin, allowing it to gently refresh and revive skin. It’s especially effective on skin that’s sensitive or sensitized due to weather, medications, hormonal changes or environmental conditions.

Get professional help.

Nothing replaces getting your skin evaluated, cleansed, exfoliated and hydrated by a skin care professional. Think of it like going to the dentist: there are things you can do at home, but to get rid of the really yucky stuff you have to get your teeth cleaned. Skin is exactly the same.

Professional skin treatments on a quarterly basis—even as infrequent as twice a year—can make a big difference in how your skin looks. It’s a solid investment that can delay the need to see a dermatologist for more invasive procedures like injectables, lifts or other types of plastic surgery.